Martin Katz - Jewels. Like No Other

Australian black red opal ring set in 18K white gold; micro-set with 234 white diamonds and 377 red and orange sapphires, 36 tsavorite garnets and 5 green tourmalines.

For over 25 years, Martin Katz has married exquisite gemstones with meticulously designed settings to create extraordinary jewelry. Katz, 57, has long had a passion for gems. In college, he built a small business selling puka shell and silver jewelry to sorority girls. After graduation, he moved to California and began working in the trade.

Eventually, he launched himself as a private jeweler. Becoming a designer wasn’t part of the plan. “Designing came out of filling a void,” he says, for clients seeking a specific piece to round out a vintage collection. “I’d say, ‘If we could make one, we’d take the top of this one and the shape of that one.’ That’s how it all started.” His reputation grew, and before long, his contemporary designs were selling better than the vintage.

Katz’s pieces start at $2,500, but the core artistic collection ranges from $25,000 to $125,000. He’s especially known for his expertise in colored stones; paraiba tourmaline, red spinel, alexandrite, and notes that pink and yellow diamonds are trending higher.

Cushion-cut Mandarin garnet of 10.25 carats encircled by a micro-set border of orange sapphires and band with white diamonds with 2 half-moon diamond sidestones. Cushion-cut orange sapphire, 15.5 carats; set in 18K white gold, micro-set with 118 amethysts and 98 diamonds.

Cushion-cut sapphire, 10.95 carats; microset with 128 diamonds and 64 blue sapphires. Set in platinum.

Cabochon fire opal, 13 carats; 354 diamonds, 14 green tsavorite garnets and 179 orange-red sapphires. 18K white gold setting.